IFMGA International Climbing Championships 2012

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Download IFMGA Programme

The British Mountain Guides are very pleased to host the 2012 International Mountain Guide Climbing Championships at the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena on the 23rd and 24th November 2012. This year the climbing championships will be held in conjunction with the IFMGA General meeting in Aviemore in the Scottish Highlands  and the annual general meeting of the British Mountain Guides at Ratho on Sun 25th November.

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The annual IFMGA climbing championships and ski races offer a unique opportunity for mountain guides from across the world to gather, to make new friends, and to mingle in an atmosphere of friendly and supportive competition. The climbing championships are very much a fun social event as well as a competition, with various categories and prizes for family, children and guides of all ages and abilities.

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This year we are fortunate to have many great prizes for the event donated by the sponsors of BMG. Also this year, to celebrate the Scottish venue for the championships – and two great Scottish inventions – there will be a ‘bonus’ dry tooling competition climb with whisky prizes for all successful ascents. The championships will conclude on the Saturday with the prize giving ceremony, Celtic music, a grand dinner and a party on into the evening at the Ratho centre.

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About the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena

Built against the backdrop of a sheer quarry rock face amongst the rolling hills of Ratho, this awe-inspiring centre has state of the art facilities that include the largest climbing arena in Europe, a bouldering room, spa and gym. The purpose built multi-level event centre contains conference facilities, meeting rooms and a café that overlooks the climbing arena. The old quarry is completely enclosed and contains 3 separate climbing walls with routes up to 28m high. It is located on the outskirts of Edinburgh only 8 km from Edinburgh airport – making access very simple.

About the Competition

The competition will be split into two parts:

1. An open arena competition with all participants climbing as high as possible on as many of the routes as they can. Participants will be belaying each other and are free to gain as much advantage as they can from watching others climb the routes! There will be about 15 routes set with grades from 4a to 7c+ (French grading system) and points will be given for the highest hold reached on each climb. The routes will be divided into 4 difficulty groups and bonus points will be awarded for climbing all routes in a group without falling. See the route scoring chart below for more details of the scoring system. At the end of the competition prizes will be awarded to participants in each category with the highest total number of points. See below for details of the categories. Participants will have all of Friday afternoon and Saturday morning to climb as many of the routes as possible.

2.  The finals. The 20 participants with the highest total scores in the open competition will be invited to go forward into the final competition. This will take place on a single climb – to be climbed ‘on sight’ according to international climbing competition rules. The finals will take place on Saturday afternoon. There will be prizes for the top competitors in the final competition.


The competition will be split over 2 days. Participants will have about 5 hours on the Friday afternoon and about 4 hours on the Saturday morning to complete as many of the climbs as they can.

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There will be about 15 routes set. These will be divided into 4 groups with different ranges of difficulty (all grades are French grading system):

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  • “Fun” up to 5c.
  • “Master” from 6a to 6c.
  • “Pro” from 6c+ to 7b.
  • “Top” from 7b+ up.



































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The score for each climb is determined by counting the number of holds climbed (including the last hold the climber touches) before falling or reaching the chain. The number of holds is then multiplied by the multiplier for the grade of that particular climb.

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If a competitor climbs all the routes in any group without falling then the bonus for that group is applied to the score for all the routes in the group.

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A. up to 34 years   B. more than 34 years


A. up to 29 years. B. from 30 to39 years.  C. from 40 to 49 years.  D. from 50 to 59 years. E. from 60 to 69 years. F. 70 years and above

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Family members

A. Women under 15.  B. Women 15+.  C. Men under 15.  D. Men 15+

Other categories for family members maybe announced, depending on the number of entries.


All competitors will receive a souvenir T-shirt and gift bag.

There will be prizes for the top 3 competitors in each category as well as the top 3 competitors in the final competition.  The IFMGA challenge trophy goes to the winner of the finals. This trophy is retained by the winner for the year. It can be kept permanently if the winner of the final has won the challenge cup 3 times in total.

There is also a ‘combined’ award for the top 3 competitors in each category who have competed in both the 2012 IFMGA ski races and the 2012 climbing championships. The rankings for these combined awards will we determined according to the IFMGA ranking system.

There will be  ‘bonus’ prizes for all competitors who succeed on the dry tooling challenge climb and other prizes may be awarded for outstanding determination, bravery, style, sportsmanship, etc. at the discretion of the organisers…


The IFMGA Climbing Championships are open to all mountain guides with IFMGA certification, as well as nationally recognised Aspirant and Trainee guides. Please do bring your identification.

Guides are very much encouraged to bring family members to the competition. There will be separate categories for children and other family members. The precise categories will be determined when the number of registrations of family members is known. Family members are also most welcome to come and watch and just enjoy the atmosphere of the event if they do not want to compete.

Registration and payment

Registration and payment for the climbing championships is best made through the online registration system. You will need to register on the website and then click on ‘book climbing championships’ in the menu on the right of the page. Fill in the required information and make payment through your PayPal account or with a credit or debit card.

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It is also possible to register for the climbing championships by downloading the registration form as a word document (available here). Fill in the required details and then email it back to me at You will need to pay the registration fee in cash (GBP only) at the start of the event.

The cost of registration for the climbing championships is 50 GBP (c. 60 Euro) for each guide and family member which includes lunch on the Friday and Saturday and the evening buffet and party on the Saturday. Children under 15 years old will be half price.

Saturday evening buffet dinner and party

Registration and payment for the climbing championships includes the buffet dinner and party at Ratho on the Saturday evening. For guides and family members who just want to come for the evening buffet and party, the cost is 25 GBP. Bookings and payment for the evening buffet and party can be made separately to the competition registration through the online booking system. You will need to register on the IFMGA2012 website and then click on ‘book evening function EICA Ratho’. Fill in the required information and make payment through your PayPal account or with a credit or debit card. (Note: If you are booking more than one person, you will have to register each person separately, adding them to your ‘cart’, then make one payment for all when you ‘check out’).

It is also possible to book just for the buffet and party by emailing me at You will need to pay in cash (GBP only) at the event.

Provisional timetable for the competition

Friday 23rd November 2012

9.00 am                 Registration opens.

10.00 am               Gore factory tour.

12.30 pm               Return from Gore factory tour.

1.00 pm                 Introduction to the comp and demonstration of the routes by route setters.

2.00 pm                 Start of the open climbing competition.

6.00 pm                 End of the open competition for the day.


Saturday 24th November 2012

9.00 am                 Continuation of the open competition.

12.00 am               End of the open competition. Lunch and musical entertainment. The route for the final competition will be reset.

2.00 pm                 The final round of competition (20 best competitors)

3.30 pm                  End of the final round of competition.

4.00 pm                  Prize giving and award ceremony.

From 6.00 pm      Dinner and party at the climbing centre.


Further information and help

The main competition organisers are Libby Peter (BMG Secretary) and Steve Monks (BMG Treasurer). We can be contacted via the email addresses below:                   

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